Garmin GPSMAP 64s – Slippery bits of information #5

I recently add a post on how to install open streets on your Garmin devices, such as the 64s or Edge520, I haven’t tried to install on my garmin Fenix 5x as it was delivered with maps installed already

Now here’s a quick post on installing OpenTopoMap rather than open streets, these the same maps as open streets but have contour lines on them as well, Oh so useful when backpacking, which I shall be doing next year 2018. The maps are updated everyweek. is the address to download the files for your Garmin device, from  the screen you can download the files that can be placed directly onto your Garmin, ‘using the Garmin icon’, (rather than the Win or PC) In my case France as I there.

OpenTopo choice

Once the file has been downloaded , de-zip it and place the two files (france.img and france_contours.img) in the Garmin folder, either on the 64s or in my case on the SD card, you can see that I have the open streets maps stored here as well

SD card Garmin

Now all you have to do is when starting up the 64s, choose the map that you want to use, ‘et voilà’, a map with contour lines. I disable all the other maps that I don’t need

For info you can also download this to Basecamp, (just us the Win download option and read my previous post on how to install to Basecamp as its the same as open streets. though no real need if you have already installed Open streets as Basecamp is unable to use the contours lines as it’s really two maps rather than one, Top of the line Garmin application and unable to use maps with overlays , doh…….

Garmin GPSMAP 64s – Slippery bits of information #4

Trying to add waypoint to a certain place on the map in your Garmin 64s is sadly more than just complicated.

There is for instance a ‘mark’ button on the left hand side of the front of the machine, so obviously you say to yourself , cool, I’ll just place the cursor over the area that I want a waypoint, and it will create a way point for me BUT NO, this doesn’t work, it does actually create a waypoint but at your home position, I wanted to create some  waypoints about 600 kms from my home. STUPIDO 64s ……..

So here what you have to do to create a waypoint where you have actually placed the cursor. With the cursor where you want your waypoint to be, hit the Enter button, then the Menu  button then you can choose the menu to save the waypoint. As Spock would have said logic no ???

This will create a waymark (blue flag) with just a number #1 if its your first waypoint, you can’t name it yet, to name it ‘Camping site, picnic area etc.) you have go into the main menu, then Setup, choose Waypoint Manager and there you will be able to see all waypoints created,and from here you can name the waypoint to something more telling than waypoint #1…..

From the menu waypoint manager you can delete all waypoints by just pressing the menu button and delete all,  to delete a individual waypoint, it’s just a little less obvious (of course) hit the enter button while over the waymark in the listing, from here you can rename the waypoint, although even that’s  not obvious, (just use the middle buton to go up to the top of the screen to cahnge the name or press  the menu button and you will now have a new pop-up menu to delete, move or a set proximity alert for instance, as usual not obvious, lets keep on dancing Garmin… Another way to delete waypoints or rename them is by using Basecamp.

Have fun


Garmin GPSMAP 64s – Slippery bits of information #3

Tip 3 :

The trip odometer is really screwed up with the original settings when you first use the 64s.

Why ? Because even if you don’t move it, like sitting down for a break, it will keep on counting the miles, or in my case kilometres.

Now this isn’t funny as there you are walking around and you have no real idea how far you’ve walked

So :

“From the Main Menu > Setup > Tracks > Record Method, set to Distance > Interval, ) set to 0.06 miles or for those using kilometers 0.10 Kms, (the original setting were 0000.01 if my memory is correct),  I’ve set it to distance, rather than time or auto, though this is for you to try. 


With this setting change it should allow for GPS wandering and eliminate it. If you still find the trip counter still ‘adding up’ you can always input  0.12 or 0.15 for example . (0.10 seems to work Ok for me)

Of course if Garmin had implemented an auto pause as they have in most of their GPS this wouldn’t be necessary. 

This should now giving a more accurate distance reading, ‘a suivre’ as they say in French……

The only problem with this by the way is that when you look at your GPX tracks they are horrible as they number of points are few, one every 100 metres, so after a few trials, I’ve stopped using this and have changed the settings to the same on my Fenix 5X,

Setup > Tracks > Record Method, set to Time 00:00:05 (actually on my watch its 1 sec rather than 5 secs), this makes the GPX look pretty decent when you look at it, but again if you stop, for a pee, lunch, sightseeing it will keep on recording the distance, so I no longer use the trip counter, as its just not usable.

Shame on you Garmin

Garmin GPSMAP 64s – Slippery bits of information #2

Tip 2 :

Adding maps to the 64

Garmen have their own maps that are pretty good. Sadly they are pretty expensive as well. (on my Edge 705 I had bought their Topo France 25:000 but not once did I have update, and of course their maps are for a one machine only so when I sold the 705 the map went with it) no way of transferring to my other GPS.

So this time I decided to try the Openstreets that I was seeing on all the forums, basically its maps that are updated in real time by users like myself and maybe you .

So here where :

Capture openstreets

So when this link is opened you’ll see this, this is the easy peasy part

Tick which style of map you want, I chose the second option ‘Generic Routable (new style)’ as after a couple of tests, this seems the best for me, walking, hiking etc (the third option, seems to be for those who bike.

Here’s  the full description Map types given by Openstreets

The map type to choose depends on your intended use for the map. Make sure the radio button for your map is selected or click the radio button to select it.

openstreet-text1.jpgNow choose from the six pop-up what country you want to download, You can see in my example that I’m downloaded France, and all of France in one go, on the 64 there plenty of room (SD Flash needed…)

If you are reading this and have a smaller GPS, a Edge 520 for instance that doesn’t have enough room then you’ll have to use the third section ‘Perhaps you’d like to add some additional tiles?’,  and choose what part of the country you need. it’s fairly obvious how to do it, except that your will leave and email address and you will receive  a link to download the part of the country that you had chosen.

Link too a site that explains far better than me for the Edge 520 installing maps

Anyway back to France in one go, once chosen in the pop-up menu, you can then click on Download map now! and it will take you to a new page.

Capture openstreets_1

To be honest the easiest way is to choose the ‘OSM_generic_new_windows.exe’, the ‘osm_generic_new_windows’ being the name of the map you chose to download

What they don’t really explain is that included with this .exe is the map, hence the size being the same as the for instance

As I wanted to add this map to Garmin Basecamp (pretty useful to see the maps and check your traces) The .exe download is perfect

Once downloaded (which takes quite a while) run the .exe under admin (right-click with the mouse and run as Admin) and with Basecamp CLOSED.. this will then add the map to Basecamp and after you can use Basecamp to install the map on the 64 or any other garmin devices that allows you to install maps.

Open Basecamp (you did close it didn’t you…) and now on the menu bar / maps you will see your map or maps in my case.


From here you can install the map on the SD Fash , by choosing the line install maps, the following window will give you the choice of what maps to be installed if like me you have several. Use the personalise button to choose which map to install and also which map to be kept, or not at the same time and hit continue then install

This will install the maps on the SD Flash, I couldn’t get the choice of of how to install in the internal memory

This will take a while so go and drink a coffee, when finished reboot your 64 and you should find the maps nicely installed Map/menu/setup map/select map …

The other way but this will not install on Basecamp is to download the ‘‘ file, when downloaded dezip it and drag and drop the gmapsupp.img file to the internal drive on your 64.

So there you go, it’s fairly easy to do all this, be careful when trying many times, all the files have basically the same names, so tidy up before re downloading otherwise it gets confusing

Openstreet update all the time their maps (unlike Garmin) , so don’t hesitate to do this regularly especially if you are like me and add tracks, paths, to I recently added a path that was missing in my village, its now are the latest version of the map, that’s nice to see.

As soon as I can I’ll add more tips…. Questions ?, just leave me a comment

Links to useful sites that I’ve read concerning either the 64, or Openstreets

Garmin GPSMAP 64s – Slippery bits of information #1

In this and the following posts I’ll try to add bits of information that I think may be of use to others.

Why ? The Garmin explications are a pure waste of time, they explain next to nothing , more nothing than next to …..

To learn how to use it correctly and to its full potential, I have started browsing through many forums trying to find out how things work, what are some of the menus for etc etc., Some I’ve learnt by myself, most of I’ve learned online from all over the place so I will try to group the useful ones here for you.

Tip 1 :

While the garmin is plugged in to the your computer, in the Garmin folder of the internal drive, there is a file called ‘startup.txt’

This file while opened using bloc-notes or any simple text editor will be like this

Capture startup text

Now here’s the cool bit, though totally useless 🙂
Change the display = 0 to 5 (I tried 5 and 2 message shows the same length)
Add a last line with your text

Capture startup text_1

Now when the Garmin starts up, you’ll have the last line’s message showing on the screen, useless but fun.



Garmin GPSMAP 64s – A waste of time ?

I’ve just bought a Garmin GPSMAP 64s : this is for when I start hiking and trekking in 2018. From 2018 onwards I will be retired and will have more time on my hands and am looking to add  more activities to what I already do, trekking / hiking being the next one to add to my list.

I’d read up on GPS for hiking before I bought the 64, and decided on the 64s as I wanted a fairly big screen, and a gps capable of recording routes while I hiked them and for hours on end, also several articles all basically said it was the best around. I have other Garmin gps’s, a Edge 520 for biking, a Forerunner 220 for running and a Edge 705 (just sold it), so I decided to stay with Garmin as I use Garmin Connect to collect all my date, (only to find later that Garmin Connect and the 64s don’t work together)


Nice clear screen with a trace on it, using Openstreets as the map

The garmin 64s has a nice big screen the trace that I had uploaded on it before shows up just fine.

So here are my first impressions, or rather the negative impressions :

Garmin Connect :

As I stated this is a waste of time with the 64s, as it doesn’t work.

I use Garmin Connect for all my running and biking activities, being used to just plugging in my old Edge 705, or uploading via bluetooth from my Forerunner 220 or the Edge 520 and I’d thought the 64s would be just the same, after all hiking / walking is just like running no ? it’s a sport no ?…….. and therefore it’s interesting to see how far you’ve walked, in what time, how long you rested, your heart rate etc etc.

So so wrong

Garmin connect isn’t capable of recuperating automatically the details of your activity , you have to manually export the GPS log in gpx form (copying it from the 64s while it’s plugged into the computer) and import it by manually import it and sadly it only shows the full time, and the kilometres and not the actual moving time, it is so much easier with Forerunner or Edge. In other words the 64s and Garmin Connect is totally useless

Ok some say you can use Garmin Basecamp, but this is for seeing, modifying routes and tracks, and I already use this to check out routes that I want to see or do and modify if need be before uploading to now the 64 (before on my 705), but it’s just a mapping program, Garmin Connect is more for data, seeing all my activities etc and even worse you can’t even export the data from Basecamp to Connect. Two programs from Garmin both usefull in their own right and no way that they can talk to each other.

Garmin, you just don’t understand ….


Now like my old Edge 705, you can have loads of data panels on one big screen, ‘photo below) this is great, having mostly all the data that you require while walking.

While I was doing my first hike, I couldn’t understand why at lease two data panels seemed to be giving me wrong information, the trip odometer and the total odometer

At the end of my walk I had only walked 20 kms but it was showing me 25.1km (earlier while I had 5 kms on my Forerunner it was already showing 7 kms…) worse still the total odometer was at 85.7 kms, now I’ve only had this machine about a week and this was the first real test with it the rest was just playing with at home

I knew that I had reset the screen while setting up the machine a week ago or so, what I didn’t realise is that the total odometer cannot be reset, unless you do a full hard reset, only the trip odometer can be reset before a hike for instance, which I had done again before my walk, later playing with it the machine and checking Garmin forums I found out that while the machine is on, the trip odometer ‘counts’ even when you are not moving for instance while you take a break or have a rest or even if you place it on a table so that there is no movement what so ever, the trip counts on and on and on…., in other words, leave it for ten minutes and you’ll have a 1KM or so recorded  and of course this adds to the total odometer.

So I’ve done one real hike nothing more, at the end I had 25 kms showing on the tripcounter, (while only 20 kms using my Foreunner at the same time) and have already 85 kms showing as my total kms while again only having walked 20 kms

So if you you are like me interested in seeing how many kms you have walked while using the 64, well you can’t.

In other words until you upload your walk to Basecamp, you have no real idea how many kms you walked, and worse still, imagine that you are doing a several day hike, well you’ll have no access to the real data without have Basecamp and a computer

This renders the 64 pretty useless

Update : I learned that if you modify the following :
“From the Main Menu > Setup > Tracks > Record Method, set to Distance > Interval, set to 0.06 miles or for those using kilometers 0.10 Kms, the original setting is less, also I’ve set it to distance, rather than time or auto.

Now this helps if you are outdoors, inside it changes nothing, I’m playing with and trying to find out more about this setting, and will try set it to 0000.15 rather than 0000.10 this should allow for gps wandering and eliminate it. ‘a suivre’ as they say in French…….

Update 23/09/2017 I ran a trail today, and as it was complicated I used the 64s to follow the trace, for that it’s ok, the problem is when uploading the trace to Basecamp the recorded trace shown on the map is useless, with points being recorded every 0000.10m its just inusable for anyone else, as you can see on the image, Ok so I’m running and moving a little faster than walking (on a bike it would have been worsebut whatever, it’s pure crap. I’m now trying  the setting to Time: every 00:00:02 seconds thaty should give me a decent trace and hopefully will not move the trip counter when resting

Garmin WE NEED AN AUTO PAUSE, nothing complicated, its on all your other machines…….

exemple garmin64 000_10m

Now if only I could to reset the total odometer without hard resetting the machine Grrrrr …..

Garmin how can you be so stupid


Both activities showing in my Garmin Connect account, after I manually uploaded the 64 data from the gpx file

The correct data showing from the Forerunner 220
and the incorrect data showing from the 64s


Screen shots from my Garmin Connect account.
Information from the 64s , you can see 20,76 kms
(on the photo higher up, its was indicated 25,1 kms),
also 4h12 activity instead of 3h36 and no calorie count.
The correct information is shown from the Forerunner 220.


Creating a Playlist on the Fiio X3

How to create a playlist using just Notepad or any simple text program for your music player, This works for my Fiio X3 player, it’s probably the same for any other player as well, or maybe with just some small modifications.

I use a Fiio X3 in my gym at home or when I’m travelling or on holidays etc.

For the travelling or my holidays while I’m lazing on the beach I just set the player to shuffle and let it choose, easy…..

When I’m working out at my home gym, I prefer the music a little ‘heavier’ and with music that keeps me going while I’m working out, so I use a playlist

When looking around how to make playlist I found a couple of posts, they seemed over complicated and or needed programs to make one.

So I decided to write this post so that you can make your playlist just using a standard text application like NotePad, Ultraedit on your PC

What is a playlist ?

A playlist is just a simple text file named ‘XXX.m3u8’ instead of ‘XXX.txt’

The XXX being the name that you give your playlist and the .m3u8 being the extension rather than .txt.

Mine is named WOD.m3u8. WOD as I do WOD workouts from Crossfit, but it could be ‘GYM’, ‘Running….’ whatever you like.

On the Fiio X3, this playlist file must be placed at the root (highest level) on the SD Flash (not in any folder, just on the SD) that you use probably use to stock your music being that the internal drive is so so small.

On the SD Flash I  have a folder named ‘Trev’s Music‘ and in this folder I have a folder per group, and if need be a folder per album in the group folder as I like things organised

On the internal drive I have a folder named ‘Music

So here’s the easy part to making a playlist :

On your PC create a new text file that you will name ‘my playlist name’.txt

So while on the PC, in this new text file add a first line #EXTM3U  (including the #)

Use a bog standard text program such as : bloc notes, Ultraedit, Notepad++

After this line, you can start adding your tracks to your  playlist (see my example below) one line per music track

All you have to do is just to save the exact address of the track that you want to add to this playlist, with my Fiio X3 plugged in to your computer this is easy to do as you can see the exact address . Normally when you click on the track that you want to be on your playlist you will see the ‘address’ at the top of the PC window.

Copy the exact address to your text file, once copied just delete the computers drive letter at the front of the title

Example :

I:\Trev’s Music\Death in Vegas\Satan’s Circus\09. Anita Berber.flac’

The title of the track ’09. Anita Berber.flac’ needs to be added after your copy the address in blue on my screen shot as it only copies the details up to the folder, not taking into account the title of the track, when you click in the address  section and don’t forget to add the \ before the title

A tip : for the track title, rather than typing (in my example ’09. Anita…..’) just do a right click to the track, choose the rename option, then you can copy the complete title (of course don’t rename it) this eliminating all possibilities of making an error when re typing.

‘I:\Trev’s music\Death in Vegas\Satan’s Circus’ the add’\’ then ’09. Anita Berber.flac’, easy peasy …..

(I :  being the letter that is giving by my PC for my Fiio SD Flash, this can be different depending on you PC : D, F, G for instance), but if you leave the letter I:\ (which is given, by your PC) when the Fiio tries to read your playlist it won’t understand the I:\ so just delete it, giving you this on your text file

‘Trev’s Music\Death in Vegas\Satan’s Circus\09. Anita Berber.flac’

adresse music

My Fiio connected to my PC

This breaks down to (the anti slash telling the machine to go down a folder, Fiio X3 doesn’t attribute a letter to the SD Flash, probably being that the Playlist is on the SD Flash itself) but it does attribute à letter to it’s internal drive, that being ‘a’

SD Flash :

First folder : Trev’s Music

Sub folder : Marc Almond (group/artist)

Sub folder : Stranger Things (album name)

Track : 01. Glorious.flac (notice you must copy the full track name including the extension, I only use Flac not mp3)

So basically your text file should look like this :

Trev’s music\Marc Almond\Stranger Things\01. Glorious.flac
Trev’s music\Leftfield\Stealth Remixes\01. Phat Planet (Dave Clarke Remix).flac
Trev’s music\Lemon Jelly\’64-’95\02. ’88 aka Come Down On Me.flac
Trev’s music\Thirty Seconds to Mars\Love Lust Faith + Dreams\07. Pyres of Varanasi.flac
Trev’s music\Death in Vegas\Satan’s Circus\09. Anita Berber.flac

These tracks all ‘point’ to my ‘Trev’s music‘ folder on my SD flash (there is no drive letter for the SD flash)

For a playlist including the tracks on the internal drive, you leave the letter at the front of the line

a:\Music\Odds & ends\06. Rewind.flac

In the example above  a:\ points to the internal drive rather than the SD (if you  want  to add some music to your Fiio’s internal drive, you will need to add at the beginning of the line ‘a:\‘) this telling the Fiio to go and ‘see’ the internal drive rather then the SD flash drive

The Fiio’s Internal drive :

a:\Music\Odds & ends\06. Rewind.flac

First folder : Music

Sub folder : Odds & ends

Track : 06. Rewind.flac

There you go a simple text file, saved on your PC, now rename the extension from .txt to .m3u8 and it becomes a playlist for your Fiio, copy it to the SD card on your Fiio X3 not the internal drive

Download my Playlist so that you can see how its ‘made’

Hope this all makes sense, any questions please contact me by leaving a comment. Also living in France for so long I forget my English so forgive any phrases / words that aren’t quite right




Updating the Bios on your Zotac computer running Linux

Updating the Bios on your Zotac running a Linux

Having just bought a Zotac EI730 to be my home media center and installing KodiBuntu (Linux + Kodi media center software) on it I wanted to see if I could update the bios as there was a later version available on the Zotac site

From Zotac you can easily check and download the latest bios version. Sadly the bios on Zotac doesn’t allow an update by itself, (telling the bios to update itself from a certain file, while in bios), and if you are like me you are only running Linux and like me know next to nothing about linux then updating the bios via Linux OS is just plain impossible.

So I ran a couple of Google checks and found next to nothing on how to update, and many people asking this question, ‘Not running Windows, how do I update my bios. ???????

Funny enough looking at the PDF that is supplied with bios download from Zotac tells you how to get around this problem

It’s as clear as mud and is slightly wrong, but after a second attempt sussed it and updated my bios in less than five minutes.

So I thought I’d try to explain making hopefully things more clear, so here’s how

Firstly you need to create a DOS (my that’s old) bootable USB , you can do this from here I already had this in my cupboard.

Here another version this one is really easy to use.

Once this Boot USB is done, download the correct bios file from Zotac for your PC and just unzip and drop all the files onto the USB, my file contained (at the time of writing)


Reading the PDF from Zotac (the last page) firstly it states ‘Boot up from MS-DOS without autoexec.bat and config.sys’ but there are no files named like this. So except the PDF file which I knew that I didn’t need I just dropped all the other onto the USB, (only two of all these names will be needed to be typed into the following DOS screen when you boot up later)

Once all files are copied onto the USB just boot the Zotac with USB plugged in, keep on pressing on the F11 at boot (this could be different depending on the model) you should then have a screen with a choice of boot options, your HD, USB etc so just choose the USB using you keyboard.
Attention the second time I tried updating my Bios,  buggered if I could get it to boot using F11,  so hit the ESC  button and boot in the Bios setup,  change the boot sequence so that it boots in priority from the USB,  do a F10 to save this and it will now reboot using the USB,  obviously later change the sequence back your hard disk.

All being well after the boot you should tnow have a black screen with some white writing similar to the below PDF and screen shot

After the C:\> you will now need to type the following, please use my screen shot as the example and not the Zotac PDF as it’s not quite right


1 : C:\>afu303.exe (if your yours is not quite the same you type exactly the same name as what you copied onto the USB, probably only the number will change) don’t hit Enter yet.

2 : C:\>afu303.exe B2250723.bin (again exactly the same as the name of the file copied on your USB, again the number can change depending on the version) don’t hit Enter yet.

3: C:\>afu303.exe B2250723.bin /p /n /b /r  (note there is a space after each /). Now if your are sure that you have typed that two file names correctly now hit ENTER (and pray …..) (I always pray when updating a bios, because if it goes wrong, power cut for instance you are in the shit …)

You can see in my screen shot how I typed all in, there is a space between the file names and before each slash

and you should have the ‘done’ at the end of each line and an empty C:\ you can now turn of the Zotac, unplug your USB and restart.

2015-08-08 16.56.59

When you reboot, if you boot into the bios (delete or supp button) you should see that your bios has changed, mine was B225P011 and it went to B225P012.

To make things difficult Zotac don’t use the same names in the bios and on their site. Mine on the site was B2250723.bin and on their bios its B22P012 , making it hard to really know if the bios installed and on their site is the same or newer, Why make things difficult ……

Notice that on the Zotac PDF they explain one way and show you another, most confusing

Hope this all helps. Also living in France for so long I forget my English so forgive any phrases / words that aren’t quite right, so please do or hesitate to leave reply or ask a question.

PS : on the Zotac PDF it suggests that you backup your old rom first, although I didn’t bother doing this, it could be wise.

Zotac update bios2015-08-08 17.01.14

Updating KodiBuntu


(If you don’t want to read all my blathering why I chose Kodi, jump down about a page to get directly into how to update it)

For the last couple of years I’ve been using Western Digital TV Hub to watch films, TV shows and listen to my 1000 odd CDs ripped in Flac on my HiFi when I can’t be bothered to grab a CD or a LP

This machine is easy to use just created a couple of folders on the internal HD then copy my files from my PC to the WD, this is useful as it means I have a separate backup, especially of my 1000 plus CD collection as this takes forever if you have to re rip them (been there , done that, don’t wan’t to do it again)

The only problem with the WD is that it is so so slow, changing screens from the music library to the video, or just changing folder takes far to long and I can no longer stand this, also there seems to be no more firmware updates and so I finally decided to sit down and see what else is available on the market. We are July 2015

After a couple of hours googling around I came across Plex

I downloaded and installed on my PC (I was running the beta windows 10 setup) It’s easy to install, the interface is clean , refreshing and easy to understand. basically you just choose to add some folders or files to it, under the TV, Movies or Music selection, point and click to where they are stored on your PC it will just ‘broadcast’ these to your TV (if your TV has DNLA )

In minutes I was able to watching a TV episode and listening to some of my music, pretty cool, extremely quick

Although this was pretty clever not being able to ‘remote control’ all from the sitting room with the PC being in the bedroom (you can stop, start, fast forward using the TV ‘s controller but not much else and this wasn’t enough for me

Also if I replaced the WD I want a separate box for my backups? I’m old school, the PC is for games, working etc not for films or music, so I again started to look around for a replacement of the WD box, there isn’t much on the market and my searches kept coming back to Zotac barebone computers running Kodi or Plex.

So I took a look at their site. Confusing to say the least, there are many different models and I didn’t have clue which one to buy. I ended up choosing a middle / upper range  model the EI730, there are two versions as nearly all the Zotac barebone, either an  ’empty’ model having no HD or memory, or a version with a HD and memory. I like building my own PCs so the options choosing my own HD and memory was for me a better option. I choose a  HD WD WD10SPCX 1T 5400T SATA 7MM 8MB and memory GSKILL SODIMM 8GB F3-1600C11S-8GRSL . I never have enough memory so I bought two sticks, giving me 16gb in all, a overkill, but who cares.

Receiving all the parts in a couple of days, adding the memory sticks and HD took all of 5 mins. The Zotac is clean and well thought out and adding the hardware is a piece of cake.

Adding a computer screen, keyboard and mouse to do the setup, plugged in a USB stick with KodiBuntu on it, (you will need to create a ‘USB startup’ using Linuxlive USB creator, which is dead easy) I didn’t want to waste a windows 7 or 10 key as the Zotac will solely be for music and video using Kodi. (if need be, you can boot into the Linux setup and be used as a normal computer)  The Zotac booted from the USB key and in less than 10mins the version Helix 14 was installed. (Helix 14 being the ‘latest’ version of KodiBuntu available on download from their site (this at the time of writing)

After the install had finished and booted into Kodi, there was a RSS feed on the bottom of the screen  saying latest version Isengard 15.0 had been released, so why did I only have version  Helix 14 installed  ? a quick browsing on the forums I found that there wouldn’t be a download for this version, and you have to update it yourself, mmmmm clever non ???

Maybe it was me but couldn’t find out how to update it to the latest version through the Kodi interface. As I like playing with things I decided to search a little in the Linux part of KodiBuntu (this means booting into the Linux desktop mode that is ‘hidden’ (I had chosen when installing Kodi to boot automatically into the Kodi interface)

This is not as difficult as it sounds, though I had already noticed many questions on how to update Kodi on the web, and  as usual the answers although correct will be pure gibberish for most, you will get answers such as do a  ‘sudo update’ etc etc , from where, how, these answers sadly don’t mean a thing to most people, being a little to complicated, never very clear and specific only to Linux utilisateurs

So after playing and fucking up the first install (trying to do a sudo update ….) and reinstalling again, here are I hope, some clear instructions to update to the latest version of Kodi.

Though being out of England for around 30 years now, some my English is as clear as mud, doh…

Updating Kodibunti

This is for those who run Kodi on a Linux setup : Kodibunti

When you are in Kodi on the bottom left of the screen the is the logout button, note that in the Jarvis update or maybe it’s just latest skin that I’ve installed,  the icon is no longer at the bottom of the screen, so just chose POWER from the menu bar and chose Exit, the this will take you to the login window where you can then choose to boot into the Linux desktop mode, so that you can do the update.

on off

Bottom of the screen power button

Once ‘Exit’ has been pressed


When you Exit Kodi

Ok, So I pinched this image from the Kodi site August  2016, just goes to show how out of date they are showing xbmc rather than Kodi

So when you are here. Top right chose Lubuntu and type in your password and hit Log in, this will now boot you into Linux

Once  booted in the standard Linux screen, choose the bottom left icon, and then choose the System tools / Synaptic manager, this will then take you into a new window.

Firstly top left click the Reload button so that it updates the package manager (you are connected to the web, arn’t you ???). You then choose  from the left frame ‘Installed’ and then slightly higher up click on ‘Mark all Upgrades’, then click on the button next right ‘Apply’ Then if all goes well …. just hit the ‘close’ button when all updates have been installed (follow the images from left to right)

All being well you have now updated Kodi to the latest version and your Linux / Ubuntu as well.

I hit the logout button after this, as I thought that this would reboot me into Kodi as normal but it only rebooted back in Ubuntu so if this happens to you, you need to go up to the top right of your screen and choose Kodi from the popup menu, then when you reboot you will reboot into Kodi, checking system info will then show you that you are running V15 (V15 being the latest version at the time of writing))

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I’m new to all this Kodi stuff, and haven’t played with Linux in years. I just found that it was far from obvious to update it, so I hope that this information helps you update your Kodi to the latest version.

Update : am now running the latest Jarvis version 16.1, all is just fine.


Zotac computer running Ubuntu

Everything on the Zotac is basically standard stuff, USB, DVI, optical outputs etc Except the ‘Display ports’ not having a clue what they were and of course cables are not supplied, so I used the DVI adaptor to connect the TV using a HDMI cable to start with

Since then have checked and need to order a cable such as this I’ve ordered but not yet received. The Displayport looks like a HDMI plus but not quite ….

The sound was connected to my Rotel RSP 1098 amp using a digital optical cable, the Rotel doesn’t accept HDMI as its to old , but there is no way I’m going to change it as its to good. shame is that Kodi doesn’t seem able to route sound to two ports at the same time, so I have to use my amp even when watching a film on the TV

Please feel free to correct me if I’m wrong or if I’ve written something stupid, or if you have any questions. Also living in France for so long I forget my English so forgive any phrases / words that aren’t quite right.


Nokia N900 – Sold

2017, This is a real old post, but I loved the N900 and don’t have the courage to delete this post

After playing with a Nokia N97 for the last 6 months or so I decided to buy the Nokia N900.

The N97 is a great machine and far better than the I Phone or other similar phones on the market but I wanted more power and more to play with and I wanted a machine that I can update my self, play with the firmware when possible and not be stuck or controlled by the manufacture.

The N900 runs on the Linux Maemo system and as the latest firmware PR1.2 has been receiving good press I thought why not lets have a go.

Out of the box and starting it up it’s far more sexier than the N97 and although it’s a Nokia and firstly looks the same but at the same time not quite. It’s a brick in comparison to the IPhone but it feels solid and real.

I firstly updated the firmware with the OTA option as the Nokia Ovi Suite doesn’t recognize the N900 nor does Nokia Software Updater (starts well…. hic)

The firmware wasn’t hard to find as the phone informs you that is a update to be done (this is automatic for all the softs or firmware, rather clever), the first download over wi-fi took about 10 mins and failed….. but it started again and this time worked

Ok so latest firmware installed what now :

Syncml : My main use for the phone is of course contacts and my agenda, I hadn’t really looked into the N900 that deeply and thought that as it’s a new phone it would use Syncml like most phones these days, doh …. it doesn’t and I need to sync my contacts and agenda with the site that I use,

Googling around I found that a program called Syncevolution seemed to be what I needed but upon reading around I found myself confronted with Linux style installs, complicated unless you already use Linux, which I do not. the other option is the program in the update catalog, which of course it wasn’t

I have played with Linux before so certain things that I read were understandable and I realised that I had to add some catalogs to the Application manager : and maemo extra-devel, thanks to where I found this out. I was then able to find the syncevolution in the catalog, the install is easy,

Update :  the config file of syncevolution can be found in /home/user/.config/syncevolution/default/peers/memotoo using WinSCP this can me modified easily from your PC, this is usefull if you need to verify that you have added correctly your user name and password etc.

Update : I’ve found that since installing PR1.3 I couldn’t get Syncevolution to run the first time, I was getting an (error 22000), I played around with the config file, see above and changed the line # preventSlowSync = 1 to preventSlowSync = 0 , taking the # of makes the line active, This then worked just fine and after I replaced the line back to it’s original state # preventSlowSync = 1

You can see all the details of the sync by  using termimal $ syncevolution memotoo, rather than the icon on your phone, this will give you all details of the sync, attention the first sync can easily take 30 to 60 mins so be patient.

Now I need to find a decent twitter program as Gravity does not exist for the N900, for the moment I’m using #Witter, it’s far the best that I have found for the moment, years behind Gravity but hopefully the programmer will gate his skates on and catch up, Update : #Witter is slowly getting better, can tweet with as well, but it’s still miles behind #Gravity.

Update A new Twitter program “Khweeteur” arrived on the N900 in the month of August, it has had a couple of modifications and is already showing some promise, am testing and will update when need be. Update :  October 2010. Am testing Twimgo, rather nice and completely different layout than the other twitter programs and for the moment the best arround , The N900 is finally getting a decent  twitter program.

Wordpress client I’m adding this update from the phone, so not to bad. (Update 2010 latest version0.8.2  is much better, you can use it now all the time, in fact most of my blogging is now done from this app.

I miss also Handy Safe pro. So I trying qtWallet , it’s good, very similar to Handy Safe I think that it might do the job nicely but does not sync with a desk version 😦 Update, This program has had several updates over the last couple of weeks. It’s almost perfect, If you need a HandySafe equivalent then this is just perfect, now just needs to be able to run on the PC for syncing purposes.

Openssh (version server) on the N900, this I love as it give access from your PC (WinSCP) to all the files hidden or not on the N900, I love prying around computer systems so this I love but it can be really useful adding / deleting or renaming files, rather than have to use the X terminal. It’s easy to install and setup.

Evernote  : this is really useful as I use it on my PC at work and home and it syncs perfectly.

DropN900 : Dropbox : This has just come available for the N900, brilliant as I use it all the time and now can grab file or place file directly in it, without have to transfer by e-mail or FTP.

Pidgin : A good chat program that I use already on my PCs.

OpenVPN and Rdesktop, now I can access my windows 2003 servor at work, can be useful sometimes.

FreOffice : I refuse to re buy Docs2Go again or rather for a third time, so I’m now using Freoffice, this program let’s me read and write  Word and Excel files.

Plastic Black Theme : very nice, giving you some nice themes and wallpapers, the possibility to get rid of the shadows around the icons and to change pixel snap to grid size, 8 is just perfect, only fault that after an update, need’s to be reset again as it default back to original settings after an update.

AGTL : This is a program for geocatching that works quite well, you need to have an account with so that you can download their data to the N900, it works quite well.,software,agtl-on-maemo-n900

Battery life could be better on this phone, but the N97 wasn’t much better, I get about 24h (max) with it, but it’s not really a problem as when I get to work I charge it anyway. using the program  aotodisconnect helps a little, shutting things down when not needed

N900 for geeks and power users : it’s fun and the by far the best phone around and I’m very pleased with it.

Update : October 26th, Nokia have brought out the latest firmware update PR1.3, I firstly applied it using Nokia Software updater, this went well, after the update all the programs need to be installed but most of the data stays in place ( on the eMMC which is not flashed) and therefore when the program are re installed the data is there as it was before

I had only a couple of programs that did not seem to work correctly. DropN900 : this is boken for most people and it seems that we need to wait for an update. Twimgo : when starting this rebooted the phone. SyncEvolution : would no longer synchronise , I contacted the programmer and Memotoo the site that I use for my Contacts and Agenda, and both were unable to help, but talking to them I noticed that some data / config files were not in the same place as on my second N900 that I had not updated and was still working Ok, so knowing that something was not quite right I decided to reflash and at the same time flash the eMMC content this taking me back to a factory state phone.

After downloading Flasher 3.5 I tried flashing the N900 (I have done this before) using the details from but this time no luck, I tried on 3 different computers, 2 XP’s and a Windows 7, this time no luck nothing happened, I spend a long time on this and finally gave up, so I booted my laptop into Ubuntu, added the Flasher program, added the Pr1.3 and Vanilla bin files and flashed in less than 5 mins. (Long live Linux, even if I have to use windoze)

With new factory state N900, time to install all the programs and all the data. I never use recup backups, I always re install everything (old habits die hard). Firstly I installed SyncEvolution and this time it worked first time, proving that the first update with old data screwed things up.

October 27th : All programs reinstalled, the phone is faster, smoother, it seems that battery life is better, now waiting for Nokia to publish the change log. BUT so far so good. Time to flash the second phone

For those that need to flash using Linux or at least using Ubuntu here is how to do it as Linux is a little more complicated that the Windows way.

Note : Re flashing the phone and the eMMC  :  This will wipe EVERYTHING and if any thing goes wrong you can brick your phone.

Download and install the flasher package from : Download the two latest  “bin” files

Start Terminal and input the below line, including the path so that flasher can see the two files  ( ‘the name of your folder’ is where you copied the two bin files )

sudo flasher-3.5 -F /home/the name of your folder/RX-51_2009SE_20.2010.36-2_PR_COMBINED_MR0_ARM.bin -f (the .bin file name might be different name in time) this install the latest firmware and scrubs most of the programs but not the data.

Terminal will then ask you for your sudo password

Then you will get a message from terminal ‘suitable USB device not found, waiting’ ( … now to connect the phone)

With the N900 switched of, the battery at least half full, press the U key  and plug in the USB cable to the N900, the other end should already be plugged in to your computer

If all goes well, you will now start seeing loads of lines of text as the flashing starts. Finally you will see a message …. CMT flashed successfully (DO NOT UNPLUG OR REBOOT THE N900 YET)

Now input into terminal : sudo flasher-3.5 -F /home/the name of your folder/RX-51_2009SE_10.2010.13-2.VANILLA_PR_EMMC_MR0_ARM.bin -f -R ( notice the -R in caps) the .bin file name might be different name in time, this is the command that will empty all the data.

Wait until you get the ….. image flashed successfully message, The phone should shut down, wait a little then start the phone as usual.

Please read the as there are more details than here except he explains for a windows update. or this as its for Linux flashing

If all went well you will have a  squeaky clean phone like when you first bought and used it, its now time to reinstall everything.

Update 02/10 : Twimgo and DropN900 updates available, DropN900 now re working with the PR1.3 update, I have also installed GPXView, this is quite nice for geocaching, but my phone has rebooted twice in two days and both times GPXView was active, coincidence ?, I don’t like my gadgets rebooting for no reason, will be keeping looking to see if I can find out why.